East Coast Surf Legends' hall-of-famer and Virginia Beach local Pete Smith is considered one of the founding fathers of the east coast surf scene. When we were introduced, Pete's grey hair and slight limp were made invisible by his youthful glow. We found a comfy spot on the couch at Freedom Surf Shop, where he works, and after some light banter, I asked:
The East Coast Surfing Championship, which draws surf stars away from some killer coastlines, is held in Virginia BeachÉbut apparently, Virginia Beach really has no waves. Can you elaborate upon this paradox?

The best surf on the east coast is Cape Hatteras, just 3 hours from here. Even the Outer Banks can be really good. The way Hatteras juts out and the Gulf Stream make the water warmer. Also, Virginia Beach is kind of a central location for a lot of east coasters.
Back in 1961, Pete and his buds went to a surfing party at Gilgo Beach in Long Island, NY, which gave them the idea to start their own thing in VA Beach the next year. It eventually grew into the ECSC of today.
It's grown from a little Saturday and Sunday contest into a 5 day event. Virginia Beach has quite a reputation because of the ECSC of course, we had no idea when we started it that it would become what it is today.
The ECSC, North America's oldest running surfing competition and the 2nd longest running surf contest in the world, takes place August 21st thru 27th between 1st and 9th Street this year. The website, www.surfecsc.com, doesn't have an event schedule up yet, but there will be many sand and sea sports and live music.

Do you think the personal characters of today's "star" surfers differ any from those of the "star" surfers of the old days?
Well, the sport in general has changed radically over the years. The pioneer surfers had long, heavy boards. Then came polyurethane foam boards that were shorter and lighter. That opened up new doors to performance. Later, board manufacturers came onto the scene.
And with board manufacturers came sponsorships?
Surfing is no utopia. In the early years, camaraderie was exceptional; no one paid us to surf. Of course, once the boom hit, spots started getting crowded. People think they own the beach. But you can't get cynical; surfing is one of the most beautiful, healthy sports in existence.
It's obvious Pete loves surfing through to his bones, and tears well up in his eyes as he recalls old memories.
We started out body surfing, and then moved on to rubber rafts that we'd pump up at the fill station, hard so we could stand on them. In 1963 Bob Holland and I started Smith & Holland Surf Shop on 22nd Street. I later opened Pete Smith's Surf Shop at 28th. Here at Freedom, folks will come in and say "I bought my first board from you". It's such a blessing, good for my morale.
When you think of love, do you think of a particular woman or a particular wave?
Both. I think of some wonderful ladies that are still etched in my heart. I still remember some great surfing days by the steel pier or wood pier. One of the best things about a wave is the shape when waves peel off like a point break. When waves have to wrap around a certain point, you might be able to ride for half a mile or more, a real long ride. Even a small wave, if it has some shape, is so much fun to ride.

Sure, Pete. The shape of the wave determines how well the wave rides. I almost asked if any of those memorable ladies might be described in a similar way, but instead asked about Pete's very first board. His arm extended upward, pointing a finger at a space high on the wall behind us. There it is, go take a look.

"Anything else on your mind, Pete?"
The epitome for me would be to hit the lotto and open my little country shop. I wouldn't care if anyone bought anything at all, though I would have to pay rent I suppose. Just come by and shoot the bull. I'd love to be able to do that again and not worry about having to make a profit, finish out my days in a friendly little surf shop, giving boards to people that can't afford them.
Does a particular band play in your mind when you are in or at the ocean?
I think of The Beach Boys, Jan and Dean, Bo Diddly, Little Richard, and Chuck Berry. One of my favorites is Creedence Clearwater Revival. If they come on the radio here, I turn it up all the way! Musically, I never had any talent. I can play the radio and that's it!
Last but not least: If you could take Jesus surfing anywhere in the world, Where Would It Be?
Probably Australia. There is such a wealth of coastline there. I've gone there in my mind many times. I won't make it in person now. I've met some Aussies that were really nice. I love the accent. And koala bears are so cute!
Meeting many folks like Pete seems unlikely most days. I consider myself lucky to have come across him. You should go visit him. He has many stories to tell. You can find Pete at Freedom Surf Shop, 1361 Laskin Rd. or www.freedomsurfshop.com.

A big thanks to Reed for helping me prepare for this interview! Send comments and questions to me at mtluvsplash@yahoo.com.